Bastard: Hip & Trendy Contemporary Chinese Restaurant in Shanghai

This season’s hyped up new opening in Shanghai is Bastard, a contemporary Chinese eatery in Jing'an serving small bites and natural wine, led by chef Michael Janczewski (Juke) and Jiro (formerly Bird, Bitter).

Bastard has quite the unique location, situated all the way at the end of the residential lane, in a building that was once a popular youth hostel. It’s a small, ultra-stylish space with seating for about 25 people. They’ve really made a bold statement with the interiors, juxtaposing industrial walls with bright magenta tables and a neon-lit metal-top bar. It's so hip. It’s one of those places where you go to be seen.

The menu is a hodgepodge of dishes inspired by Chinese cuisines and flavors, which are then mixed up with Asian and Western influences. Like the name suggests, they seek to “bastardize” Chinese food with an inventive, tasty twist. Shanghai is chock-a-block with wine bars, but Bastard's boldness in food and vibe makes them stand out from the crowd.

Fried Tofu (¥38) – Two tiny pieces of fried tofu topped with diced century egg, dried prawn, and roasted Hunan chili. Mildly spicy.

Yellowtail (¥108) – A yellowtail crudo in a lively sauce made with green Sichuan peppercorns. Has a naughty kick of spice.

Assorted Beef Taco (¥78) – A scallion pancake (which I’m hoping is at least made in house) with sesame paste, a type of sweet sauce, beef brisket, tripe, and tongue, and a healthy helping of raw shallots and cilantro. Very tasty, gone in two bites.

Spring Roll (¥68) – A single spring roll filled with eel and “hing kee sauce.” The “dish” is forgettable, except you’d remember you paid ¥68 for a single spring roll.

Sichuan Charcuterie Smoked & Stuffed Chicken Wing (¥78) – A single wing stuffed with rice and Sichuan cured meats, slow braised in a masterstock.

Mayura Wagyu M9 Bavette (¥138) – Thin slices of exceptional quality raw beef topped with smoked chili beef fat vinaigrette, tiny wood ear mushrooms, shredded leek, and an egg yolk. Creamy, slightly smoky, and rich.

Charsiu (¥138) – Thick pieces of Iberico pork glazed in honey and Yunnan rose jam. It’s textbook Charsiu with a subtle flavor difference.

Crispy Saliva Chicken (¥138) – Deliciously crispy chicken topped with fried garlic and lemon. If anything, this is the dish to come for.

Bastard Ban Mian (¥78) – Homemade noodles with Xinjiang Dan Dan Sauce, cumin, and crispy panko. Tasty and comforting.

For drinks, cocktails (highballs) from ¥78, wines by the glass from ¥78, beer from ¥58. But it's mostly wine.

There is no doubt that the food at Bastard is tasty. However, the sticker shock is a lot to bear for the small plate portions. It is pricey almost to the point of fury. A single eel spring roll for ¥68 and Dan Dan Mian for ¥78 is exorbitant, because while delicious, it’s not particularly new, exciting, nor inventive. A great name, a great concept in theory, but it falls short on expectation.

Dinner was ¥900 for two without alcoholic drinks, and having ordered nearly the entire menu, both me and my dining companion left full, but only “just full.” I wouldn’t recommend it as a dinner date spot, as tables are tightly packed, almost mushed together, and the volume quite loud. But otherwise, it's a hip and lively setting that's better enjoyed with friends.

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Bastard
View the listing here.